Zugreni Gorges

The Zugreni Gorges are formed by Bistriţa River between the Giumalău Massif and the Pietrosul Bistriţei Massif. Zugreni Gorges are located in the central part of the Eastern Carpathians, Suceava County, on Crucea commune territory, at ca. 20 km north-east of Vatra Dornei town. This natural reserve is distributed in the forestry wards of Vatra Dornei and Crucea (Latitude 47'24', Longitude 25'3 1'). With a surface of 100 hectares, the area was declared a geological and floral reserve in 1973.

The Bistriţa River is crossing down this reserve on a length of ca. 2 km, making there those gorges relief type. The nature reserve is located on the northern slope of Pietrosul Bistriţei summit (made of gneiss) and on the southern slope of Rarău-Giumalău massif (made of limestone and crystalline schist, belonging to the Jurassic age). According to Koppen, that region has a boreal climate (type Df), with cold, wet winters, and unstable and chilly summers. The average temperature is +4.2 ^OC per year. The most frequent winds are those from the west (31.7%), while those from the east have a frequency of 9.4%. Those western winds raise the degree of soil humidity by their raining contributions. One can remark the fact that along the Bistriţa river, the winds have a smaller intensity, being channelized by the passage of that valley.

Photo by Emilian Pricop

Wilderness of rocks, flora, scenic beauty, make this area a sight of great interest. The first mentions over the flora of that region have been made by D. Brândza (1889); later on, D. Grecescu (1898), A. Procopianu-Procopovici (1906) made other mentions. The Queen flower is found here in the lowest area in the country and is a natural monument, is found here in the lowest state in the country. Also here was detected the presence of endemism Pietrosia levitomentosa (syn. Andvyala levitomentosa), housed in an inaccessible area (on Pietrosul Bogolin summit, at ca. 1750 m.s.l.).

• Can be seen here Carpathian endemites (in general): Aconitum moldavicum ssp. hosteanum, Campanula rotundifolia ssp. polymorpha, Cardamine glanduligera, Festuca carpatica, Symphytum cordatum, Leucanthemum waldsteinii, Melampyrum saxosum, Poa rehmannii, Campanula carpatica, Phyteuma vagneri;
• Romanian Carpathian endemites: Aconitum moldavicum ssp. moldavicum, Scabiosa lucida ssp. barbata, Silene nutans ssp. dubia, Dianthus tenuifolius, Eritrichium nanum ssp. jankae, Thymus bihoriensis;
• Eastern & Southern Carpathian endemites: Gentiana cruciata ssp. phlogifolia, Primula elatior ssp. leucophylla, Ranunculus carpaticus, Hepatica transsilvanica.
• Some plant species into the natural reserve of "Zugreni Gorges" are pretty rare, such as: Matteuccia struthiopteris, Pinus mugo, Arnica montana, Avenula compressa, Corrallorhiza trijida, Doronicum columnae, Elsholtzia ciliata, Epipogium aphyllum, Ligusticum mutellina, Lilium martagon, Rhodiola rosea, Telekia speciosa, Euonymus nana, Leontopodium alpinum (this last one is situated at only 740 m.s.1. there).

Zugreni is one of the most beautiful and exciting areas of Romania, very popular for spending active holidays or free time (fishing, trekking, hiking, rafting).

Arbore Monastery

Arbore Monastery is located in the northeastern part of Romania, in the Bukovina region, about 30 km from the town of Suceava. Arbore Monastery is among the famous painted monasteries in Romania and it was listed as UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.

The monastery was built between the 2nd of April and the 29th of August 1503, by Luca Arbore, in the village of Soloca, that he owned. He was one of the important boyars of Ştefan cel Mare, being since 1486 the gatekeeper of Suceava. He defended bravely the Suceava Fortress in 1497 against Polish attacks. Five month later, he erected the monastery, next to his private residence, meant as a family chapel and cemetery. Luca never saw the paintings of his monastery completed because he was beheaded along with two of his sons, having been falsely accused of treachery. The church was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist.

The church has a rectangular plan at the outside without a tower. The extremely elegant silhouette of the building is emphasized by the wall extension to the west by about 2,5 meters, and their union above, through an arch; originally thought as a space for the steeple, a new architectural element in Moldavia of the time.

It has remarkable fresco paintings against a predominant green background. The green is in five shadows and 47 hues combined with red, blue, yellow, pink and ochre. Unfortunately the secret of combining colors held by the painters of Arbore is now lost. However, scientists were able to identify thirty substances, including animal size, vinegar, egg, gall and honey. Restorers can now only stabilize what has been left of the frescoes. The interior paintings were seriously damaged in the 17th-18th centuries when the church remained without its roof.

The paintings were made by a team led by Dragoş Coman from Iaşi. The artist proves to be a genius: a widely-traveled man, he innovates, has a new vision different from the one of his predecessors, he succeeds in making a bold synthesis of oriental and western elements, well integrated in tradition though. Most of the paintings represent scenes taken from the Genesis and the Saints' Lives. They are delicate and vivid, whereas houses are drawn in perspective. The best preserved frescoes are found on the relatively sheltered south and west walls.

Among the most valuable scenes one may see are The Hymn of the Prayers to the Virgin, The Siege of Constantinople, The Last Judgment, The Prodigal Son and many others. The Siege of Constantinople is a syncretic representation of the attacks of Persians, Avars and Slaves upon Constantinople in 617. The Journey of the Magi, the Holy Virgin and other scenes show the painter's disposition to rocky landscape against a predominantly green background, like in the Last Judgment where he finds his own solutions to render the characters' movement fluid. In the Prayer of All Saints on the apse, Christopher, the defender against death, with Baby Jesus on his shoulder is also among the martyr saints, it is a unique and unusual image for Moldavia, influenced by the mural painting in Catholic countries.

The two heavy slabs of stone preserved near the church since the time it was painted, have fifteen small holes which used to serve as containers for the mixing of colors. Traces of pigment corresponding to the frescoes have been found in the hollows on their surface.

In the narthex, which also functions as a burial chamber, one may find the tombs of the church founders, Luca Arbore and his Polish wife, Iuliana, decorated with unusual Gothic stonework that bears a strong Polish influence. The icon screen dates from about the same time as the church itself. It is heavily encrusted with smoke, but paintings underneath are intact, preserved by the very grime which obscures them. Inside the monastery, an ethnographic museum with a rich display of the region's most valuable assets is worth visiting. The monastery was restored between 1909-1914 and 1936-1937.

Sources: Braşov Travel Guide, MarvaoGuide, CreştinOrtodox.

Suceviţa Monastery

Suceviţa Monastery is an Eastern Orthodox convent situated in the Northeastern part of Romania. It is situated near the Suceviţa River, in the village Suceviţa, 18 km away from the city of Rădăuţi, Suceava County. It is located in the southern part of the historical region of Bukovina. It was built between 1581 and 1584 by Gheorghe Movilă, Bishop of Rădăuţi, and finished by ruling prince Ieremia Movilă, his brother, and ruling prince Simion Movilă. Both the Movilă brothers are buried at the monastery.

Suceviţa is the largest and also the last built of the painted monasteries of Bukovina. The first foundation of the Movilă family, that preceded the present monastery complex was a more modest church, dating from around 1581. During the reign of Petru Şchiopul (Peter the Lame), the Movilă brothers became counselors of the ruling prince enjoying a prosperous economic position, and such began erecting an ample monastery.

Suceviţa was a princely residence as well as a fortified monastery. It is surrounded by thick, fortified walls. The enclosure walls and towers give the monastery the aspect of a medieval citadel. Ieremia Movilă added to the church two open porches (to the North and to the South); he also built massive houses, the surrounding walls (6 m high, 3 m thich) and defense towers on each corner. The legend has it that an old woman had been working there for thirty years, carrying in her ox wagon stone for the construction of the monastery. This is the reason why a female head is carved on a black stone in the monastery's yard. The church architecture has harmonious combination of the Byzantine and Gothic art elements.

Like all the painted monasteries, the church, dedicated to the Dormition of the Theotokos, is frescoed inside and out. Yet, the Western Wall is blank. Legends say that the artist fell off the wall scaffolding and was killed, so it remained undecorated. Frescoes are painted in purple red and blue against an emerald green background and are the work of two master painters, Ioan and his brother Sofronie from Suceava. The inside painting is represented on the all available surfaces, according to the traditional iconographic program, but enriched by theological themes less customary in Moldavia. The two most outstanding frescoes are the Ladder of Virtue, showing the saints ascending to heaven whilst sinners (depicted as Turks) fall down to be taken by demons, and the Last Judgement, which was left unfinished when its painter fell from the scaffold and died. Another painting of note is that of the Siege of Constantinople, showing the degree to which this event affected the Orthodox Christians of Moldavia.

Suceviţa Monastery was first inhabited by monks in 1582. During the communist era, only nuns over 50 were allowed to stay at Suceviţa. Today it is a nun convent, the sisters living a simple life in daily prayers, and growing their land. The monastery museum keeps one of the richest and most valuable medieval art collections of Moldavia. Suceviţa Monastery is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Sources: Wikipedia, MarvaoGuide, Braşov Travel Guide.

Voroneţ Monastery

Voroneţ Monastery is located near the town of Gura Humorului, Suceava County, Moldavia, Romania. It is one of the famous painted monasteries from southern Bukovina, an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The monastery was built by ruling prince of Moldavia Ştefan cel Mare (St. Stephen III The Great) between May and September 1488. The monastery was built to fulfill a promise to Stephen's spiritual father and adviser, St. Daniel the Hermit, who had lived in a cell in the area, and to commemorate the victory over Turks at Battle of Vaslui (1475). Upon his death, St. Daniel was buried in the monastery church (with the exception of his right index finger, which was encased in silver and sent to Putna Monastery).

The monastery is located on a riverbank, at the end of the long and narrow village of the same name. The present church was built on the site of an older wooden church, the scanty remains of which have not been dated. The exterior, with its buttresses and door and window frames were related to Western European High Gothic. The influences spread from Transylvania and Poland with craftsmen who were invited especially to build churches. The church of Voroneţ that Stephen the Great built included the chancel, the naos with its tower, and the pronaos.

The Last Judgment on the west façade of the Church of St. George

In 1547, the Metropolitan Bishop of Moldavia Grigore Roşca, a salient scholar of his time, added the exonarthex to the west end of the church. The small windows, their rectangular frames of crossed rods and the receding pointed or shouldered arches of the interior door-frames are Gothic. The south and north doors of the exonarthex of 1547 have rectangular frames, which indicate a transition period from Gothic to Renaissance. But, above them, on each wall is a tall window with a flamboyant Gothic arch. On the north façade is still visible the original decoration of the church, the rows of ceramic enamelled discs in yellow, brown and green, decorated in relief. These include heraldic motifs, such as the rampant lion and the aurochs' head of the Moldavian coat of arms, and creatures inspired by Western European medieval literature, such as two-tailed mermaids. The tower is decorated with sixteen tall niches, in four of which are windows. A row of small niches encircles the tower above them. The fragmented roof probably follows the shape of the original roof, which doubtless was made with shingles. The whole west façade is without any openings, which indicates that the intention of Metropolitan Roşca was since the beginning to reserve it for frescoes.

South façade with scenes from the lives of Saints Nicholas and John the New

The frescoes were painted between 1534 and 1535, during the reign of one of Stephen's successors, Petru Rareş. They were commissioned at the request of Grigore Roşca. The names of the artists are unknown except for one master painter, Marcu. Because of the frescoes' vivid color, "Voroneţ Blue", a pigment created using lapis lazuli, has entered the artistic lexicon. During the half century that separates the paintings of the exonarthex from those of the naos, Moldavian art had evolved from sober and rigorous to more complex, decorative and lively. Floral decorations fill all available empty space, divide scenes and registers, and accentuate architectural elements such as niches and arches. The clothes of the figures turn from simple into sumptuous, and the bleak landscapes are now filled with vegetation. Details win ground where earlier spiritual intensity was most important.

Voroneţ Monastery is known as Sistine Chapel of the East due to its splendid exterior and interior frescoes.

Sources: Wikipedia, Orthodox Wiki, Romanian Monasteries.
More images at Orthodox Photos.

Suceava Fortress

Suceava is the capital city of the Suceava County, Bukovina, Northeastern Romania. It is situated on a commercial high-way that linked the Baltic with the Black Sea. The town of Suceava gained its importance from the presence of the main royal palace which Petru I Muşat (1375-1391) built here at the end of the 14th century. Close to the royal court and the citadel stood the Mirăuţi Church, the first Metropolitan Church of Moldavia, which once housed the relics of Saint John the New, one of Moldavia's patron saints.


Suceava fortress was built by Petru I Muşat who moved here his residence from Siret and it had a rectangular shape, with a 36-meter long southern side and 40-meter long eastern side and defensive square towers at each end and in the middle of each side as well. It was first mentioned in 1388, but it was later transformed into a residence castle by Alexander the Good (1400-1432) and Stephen the Great (1457-1504) when Suceava became the capital of Moldavia. At the initial walls (10 m high and 2 m width) there were added new ones and a deeper water ditch was dig to surround the castle. The inside rooms belonged to soldiers, the prince and his family; there was also a chapel and a warehouse for food and ammunition. After 1476 Stephen doubled the exterior walls by adding new layers which were fixed to the existing walls, so that they varied in thickness from 2m to 4m. The walls were also made circular so that they stood more chance of surviving bombardment. This is the explanation why Suceava fortress couldn't be conquered despite the fact it was under siege several times by Turks and Polish armies - in 1467, 1485, 1497 and 1509. Only treason was the key for making possible its occupation by enemies (September 18th, 1538).


Under Alexandru Lăpuşneanu's second reign (1564-1568), the Turks ordered the fortress to be set on fire and the royal residence was moved to Iaşi. The last flourishing period of the fortress took place during Vasile Lupu's reign (1634-1653); the prince restored a good deal of it. In 1657, the Turks ordered ruling prince Dumitraşcu Cantacuzino (1673-1674 and 1684-1685) to destroy it. Nowadays, this fortress is a part of Suceava city so one can reach it easily.


From the point of view of the economic life it is worth mentioning that for the first half of the 15th century, the archaeological excavations revealed at Suceava metal processing (iron and bronze, proven by the iron and bronze slag bits, as well as metal dies). They uncovered numerous craft tools, such as: hammers, anvils, tongs, chisels, household artifacts (knives, locks, keys, etc.) or arms and harness parts. At the same time, they found many agricultural tools, such as shares, plough iron parts, sickles, hacks, etc. Besides these crafts it is worth mentioning those for ceramics processing, especially the enameled one, as well as the ceramic plates and disks used for interior and exterior decoration, for secular and religious buildings. The first excavations were carried out by the end of the 20th century by C.A. Romstorfer.

The Royal Inn in Suceava

A historical monument and the oldest preserved medieval civil building in the city of Suceava, the inn was built at the end of the XVI-th century, as a hosting house for foreign guests and great merchants. It was erected over an older building, within an area for merchant shops, especially pottery shops, during the 15-16th centuries. Along the centuries, it used to be the meeting point where rulers stopped on their way back from hunting in Suceava forests, reason for it was named "Hanul Domnesc" (The Royal Inn). After the occupation of northern Moldova by the Habsburg Empire in 1775, the Royal Inn changes its destination, becoming a hunting house for the imperial family members. The building became a gendarmerie headquarters, then a private property until 1962.


In 1962 it was completely restored, from the cellar to the roof. In the former kitchen of the inn, the oven was reconstructed in the style of traditional Moldovan ovens. On the first floor have been preserved the oak beams of the ceilings of the two corridors. The architectural elements of the period regained with the restoration of walls, the construction of Royal Inn into the cultural tradition of the old medieval inns of Suceava.


The inn houses Bucovina's Ethnographic Museum or the Ethnography and Popular Art Museum. The permanent exhibition at the ground floor reconstruct the atmosphere of an old inn and includes pub room, private salon, recreation room, cuisine, and basement. In the museum are shown over 6 ethnographic micro zones of the county (Suceava, Humor, Câmpulung-Moldovenesc, Vatra Dornei, Rădăuţi and Fălticeni), exceptional pieces of popular high artistic refinement. The museum has heritage and folk art objects (13,000 items); it highlights a series of very old folk costumes, collections of masks, painted eggs or pieces carved in wood, ceramics, textiles, ornaments for holiday, musical instruments, traditional furniture, some exposed even in the reconstruction of interior peasant houses.